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Blogging from Greenland:

by Jan Mh on January 24, 2015

Blogging from Greenland:
Sharing a trip to a place 
no one goes

Valley Advocate photographer Paul Shoul and GoNOMAD.com Editor Max Hartshorne went to Greenland in early November 2006. The opportunity to see the world's largest island and share this unknown place with readers was worth minus ten degree temperatures and ferocious wind chills that November brings to this sparsely settled and beautiful landscape.

As the polar ice cap melts and recedes, Greenland is changing, and despite its remoteness, it is becoming a travel destination.  Air Greenland will begin regular air service between the US and Greenland in May 2007. Below are some of the daily posts from Max's blog, Readuponit, put up during the trip.


Greenland: A First Glimpse of Life Above the Circle

We landed in Greenland's biggest airport called Kangerlussuaq, above the Arctic circle, and stepped onto the windy tarmac. Inside the small airport, four youths stood in a row, as if waiting for us, they had features of eskimoes, the high cheekbones and Asian eyes. 

We had a late dinner of reindeer, smoked halibut and salmon, and in the middle of the plate, a little bowl of 1/4" long white squares with black at the ends. This was whale blubber, chewy, indistinct taste, but the flavor stays with you the next day. We were shown to spartan rooms, (this is a former military base), with common bathrooms and I fell deep asleep while the wind howled outside.

The next morning I got a glimpse of Greenland. It was stark, barren, absolutely treeless, and the only snow I saw was a dusting on a faraway mountain.  Our first excursion was into a huge 16-wheel tundra buggy that took us 38 km out onto the inland ice cap, that covers about 85% of this home-ruled Danish territory.

The inland ice at the Russell Glacier was breathtaking -- aquamarine stripes in white, crevices and huge frozen streams where tons of water spews forth to a giant river during the summer. The glaciers here melt off more water in a day than NYC uses over 2 years! The billions of gallons that melt into the sea would make Saudi Arabia cry. In places there was clear ice, and walking on the pack, you looked for snow to step on so you wouldn't slip. There were